Setting trekking poles once for the whole day rarely works well. On an ascent, they restrict freedom of movement if they are too long, and on a steep descent, they do not provide firm support if they are too short. It is worth knowing how to adjust trekking poles depending on the slope gradient, the type of ground, and the weight of your backpack. This is a simple action that effectively relieves the knees, improves balance, and helps maintain a walking rhythm.
How to adjust trekking poles on flat terrain
The starting point is to set the poles on a level section. Stand straight in your trekking boots, rest the tip of the pole by your foot, and grip the handle. Your elbow should form an angle close to 90 degrees. It does not have to be perfect to the degree - the goal is a position where your shoulders remain relaxed and your forearm does not rise high or drop down.
For most people who are about 170-180 cm tall, the working length is usually 115-125 cm. This is only a rough guide. A person with longer legs who walks quickly on hard trails might prefer a slightly longer setting. Conversely, with a shorter stride, a heavy backpack, or weaker stability, a slightly shorter length works better.
Do not set your poles solely according to the printed scale and the height from the manufacturer's table. Tables help you start the adjustment, but they do not account for arm length, shoe sole thickness, gait technique, or the terrain. Walk a few dozen meters on a flat section. If you have to lift your shoulders, shorten the poles. If you are constantly leaning over to reach the ground, lengthen them.
Pole length for ascents and descents
The most important rule is practical: shorten the poles when going uphill and lengthen them when going downhill. The change does not have to be significant. On terrain with a moderate gradient, 5 cm is usually enough, while on steep sections, it can be 10 cm or more.
Trekking poles on an ascent
On an ascent, your hands work higher relative to your feet. A pole set to the flat-terrain length would force you to lift your hands too high or place the pole too far behind you. Shorten it so that you can firmly plant the tip next to your stride and push off without tensing your shoulders.
For a long, steady ascent, adjusting both segments is justified. If the gradient changes every few dozen meters, there is no need to stop at every change. You can stick to an intermediate setting and, in the steepest spots, grip the handle lower down. This is a faster compromise, although it provides less precision than a full adjustment.
On a traverse, i.e., while walking across a slope, it is worth setting the poles asymmetrically. The pole on the higher side should be shorter, and the one on the lower side should be longer. This keeps your hands working at a similar height and prevents your posture from leaning unnecessarily toward the slope. This technique is particularly useful on narrow paths, wet grass, scree, and snow.
Trekking poles on a descent
During a descent, the poles are meant to take on some of the load and provide an additional point of support before you place your foot. Lengthen them compared to the flat-terrain setting. When the tip rests lower on the slope, your hand should remain in a natural position without deeply bending your torso.
Do not extend the poles to their maximum just because you are going downhill. Models that are too long get stuck between rocks easily, hinder quick repositioning, and can yank your arm if you slip. On a technical descent, a stable, moderate extension is better than trying to reach far in front of yourself.
If you are walking with a backpack loaded with camping gear, water, and extra food, the pole matters more on the descent. Every step then transfers higher stress to the joints. Set the length so that you can actually lean your weight on the handles while still keeping your elbows slightly bent. A locked, straight elbow absorbs sudden loads less effectively.
How to set segments and locks
Trekking poles usually come in foldable, telescopic, or hybrid versions. Adjustment depends on the design, but the goal is the same: segments should be extended evenly, and locks should be securely fastened.
In telescopic models with an external clamp, first open the lever, set the length according to the scale, and then firmly close the clamp. The pole should not collapse under pressure, but the lever should not require significant force to close either. If the lock is too loose, tighten the adjustment screw minimally - a quarter turn is usually enough. Tightening it too much accelerates wear on the mechanism and makes it difficult to operate while wearing gloves.
In a twist-lock system, segments are locked by rotating them. Before setting out, check for sand, mud, and moisture on the joints. Dirt reduces lock effectiveness, and wet hands make tightening difficult. After folding the pole, rest it on the ground and transfer some of your body weight onto the handle. This is a quick test better performed at a mountain hut or parking lot than on a steep section of the trail.
Z-style foldable poles usually have a fixed length or a small adjustment range. In their case, check that all segments have snapped into place, the cable is properly tensioned, and the button or locking mechanism has fully engaged. They are lightweight and convenient for transport, but they do not replace full telescopic adjustment when the route leads through long ascents, descents, and traverses.
Wrist straps: adjustment that changes how the pole works
A well-fitted strap allows you to transfer pressure from your palm to your wrist and forearm. Slide your hand through the loop from underneath, then grip the handle along with the strap. The strap should support your wrist without cutting into the skin and without too much slack.
Do not clench your hand throughout the entire hike. With a correctly set strap, you can relax your fingers for a moment without losing control of the pole. This reduces forearm fatigue during a multi-hour hike. In terrain where there is a risk of the pole getting stuck between rocks or roots, some people consciously do not use the straps. This solution reduces the risk of a wrist jerk but removes some of the benefits during strong pushing.
Remember your gloves. If you start in the morning wearing thin gloves and take them off later as it warms up, the straps may require adjustment. The same applies after putting on thicker winter gloves. The adjustment should be quick and possible without removing your backpack.
Tips, baskets, and ground settings
The length of the pole does not work in isolation from the tip. On rock, packed dirt, and roots, exposed carbide tips work best. They provide good grip but can scratch surfaces and slip on very smooth, wet rock. Rubber caps are useful on asphalt, paving, and when approaching the trail, as they reduce noise and protect the tip.
In snow, mud, or loose sand, attach baskets. Without them, the pole can sink deeply, causing its effective length to decrease suddenly. A small trekking basket is usually enough for soft ground, while a wider winter model is needed in deep snow. After changing the baskets, take a few steps and check if the support method still corresponds to the set length.
When to adjust poles during the hike
Changing the length makes sense when the terrain will maintain its new character for a longer period. Before a several-hundred-meter ascent, a long descent into a valley, or a traverse, it is worth stopping for a minute. On short, undulating sections, frequent adjustment can be more cumbersome than helpful.
A good habit is to check the locks before heading out, after a long stop in the rain, and after passing through mud or water. If a pole starts to collapse on its own, do not ignore the problem. Stop, clean the mechanism, dry the segments, and set the clamp tension. In the mountains, the failure of one pole on a descent can change the pace of the entire group.
Before the next route, set the poles to their base length, check the straps, and choose the tips for the terrain. Only then pack them by your backpack or in its side pocket. Well-adjusted trekking poles are not an accessory to the hike - they become a predictable point of support when the terrain stops being predictable.